[The Curtain Rises]

June 25, 2013

(The contents of this website are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. government or the Peace Corps.)

I woke up one morning, Thursday, the 30th of May, 2013, to be exact, and I was in Asunción, Paraguay. 

[Lights intensify like dawn]

And while I’m not trying to insinuate some surprise international abduction, I am trying to convey the, “I haven’t absorbed this” feeling you get when the velocity of life is whirling too fast too land … despite, however, the fact that we safely did. The “we,” of whom I referred are the 23 other G-42 members of the Peace Corps’ Community Economic Development sector. Post-touchdown, we were herded past customs (that’s right, ‘past’), loaded onto a bus, and taken direct to the Peace Corps Training Center in Guaramabré, just over an hour south of the capital city where our overnight coach landed. We were greeted with a song, split up into two groups, 12 in each of the neighboring communities, and assigned host families for our three-months of pre-service training.

I live with Justina Delgadillo, aka Tuti in Itá. She grew up during the Strossener dictatorship, which is apparent in her rather unambitious perspectives, is young to have three grown daughters and five grandkids, by my standards, and is divorced; a taboo according to local social standards. But, as she said to me in her thick Guaraní cropped Spanish accent, “A cada uno lo suyo” … which translates to, “To each their own.” And fortunately, as her accommodating actions have shown, she means it and kindly adjusts for my cultural quirks.

For instance, despite the fact that I occasionally eat eggs and white meats, after explaining my lactose/bread/red-meat/fried-food-free diet,  I am considered a vegetarian; and as a result, a ‘light’ piece of her “what the &%$@ am I supposed to cook this girl!?” neighborhood gossip. However, aside from not knowing how to cook veggies outside of a vat of boiling animal lard, Tuti has indeed accommodated me by taking the initiative to get vegetable bouillon cubes and learning how to cut bite-size pieces for a salad.


[Peace Corps provided cook book I found on the table one day after training]

Other Corps cohorts who didn’t have the language skills or were too worried about stepping on the traditional gender role to address diet desires, have sat down for lunch with their brownbag packed with a pound of beef and a hefty side-o-starch before getting a repeat for dinner; China Study-schmina-study! Paraguay’s animal protein intake has got to scoot it right-on-up the list of first-world cancers.

[The plates are cleared from dinner table and the lights fade]


(Carnicero en el Mercado Central, Itá)

 

The Mexico Moto-Deposit

September 20, 2011

I’ve been in Quetzaltenango, aka Xela (shay-la) Guatemala for a month studying Spanish and piano and taking aerobics and yoga classes … oh, and climbing a damn steep volcano.


Full moon hike up Volcan Santa Maria above Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

The cost for private Spanish classes at Miguel de Cervantes Spanish School & Hostal is about $4 an hour. So, for an aerobics class, followed by 3-hours of one-on-one Spanish, an hour of piano and an hour-and-a-half of yoga I paid $16.70 per day, in c...
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Held Up by Tonka

August 7, 2011
I’ve been in San Pedro la Laguna, Guatemala for a week, staying with the sweet Gonzalez family who I met while studying Spanish here in 2009.


Pedro is a painter of traditional Mayan themes (ArteMaya.com) and even has a piece in the Smithsonian. Debora is a queen of the hand-made tortilla and will only cook them on her wood burning stove on the back porch.

It’s been a pretty intriguing week; climbing La Nariz del Indio, debating the rules of the imperfect subjunctive tense with my Spanish t...
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Guatemala: “People here just enjoy life,” he said.

July 1, 2011
So much to say, so much to say … my brain is like a glitchy GPS. I lived and worked for two-months on the scuba certification factory of Utila, an Island run by 20-something backpackers, before cargo shipping Cart-her back and traveling through the rain to see the ruins of Copán, on the Honduran/Guatemalan border.

Even though I learned the interesting – and slightly disturbing – fact that the inhabitants of the Mayan ruins buried their dead underneath their stone beds to use them as a ...
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Island Fever

May 29, 2011
After about a month and a half of shipping organization and transit time to Utila Island, the modular chin bar replacement for the snapped flip-top button on my Scorpion EXO-900 TransFormerHelmet finally came in! It’s like Christmas in May. I couldn’t imagine touring through such vastly different climates as I have been – from December’s record lows in the southeastern States to the humid 90s along the Caribbean coast – in anything but a modular lid; hydratable, breathable, and chat...
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KLR Maintenance Day 3,452

May 24, 2011
I’ve learned that humidity causes carburetors to run lean. That the KLR ignition coil is sealed, can’t be visually inspected, and can only be checked with a coil reader and the ability to measure the arch. That I can now remove the side panels, seat, fairings, gas tank and carburetor, clean it and put it all back together in 19 minutes and 18 seconds since, through unintentional experience, I am now KiLleR carb-pilot programmed.

 
The orange splatters around the gas cap were from shaking ...
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Moto-Crossing Borders: Mexico to Belize to Guatemala to Honduras

March 29, 2011

The following is a list of border crossing info for fellow moto-adventurers ... Mom, this one isn't for you! But I love you dearly.

MONEY X: 1 USD = 12 Pesos

US TO MEXICO
Date:
January 21, 2011
Location: Lukeville, Arizona – Sonoyta, Mexico
Paperwork required:
• Passport – 1 copy
• Registration or Title – 1 copy
Total Cost: $61.50 USD
• Vehicle Import Permit = $437.61 (credit card only) = $36.5 good for 6-months
• Tourist Visa = $25 USD good for 90-days
Money Accepted: USD or Mexican Pe...


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Cave Diving to Mud Sliding

March 12, 2011
After three grating days of post-new-tire flat-fixing (three pinch-flats on my bike and one on Malcolm’s) I am still on the hunt for the elusive 130/80-17 tubes and a case of anti-chafing talcum powder; a multi-purpose cure for tire/tube friction and monkey-butt. And fortunately now, after scuba diving the Cenotes in Tulum, I’ve regained my tranquila and bi-wheel love. Mechanicals happen.
 
 
Sweet warm-water white sand beaches of Tulum and our dive leader, Paulo of Easy Chango dive center...
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The Terrible Tubes

March 2, 2011
We just got new Kenda K761 130/80-17 rear tires for our KLRs ... the only in-stock rubber we could find on the Yucatán Peninsula from our online searching. Things down here; services, products, specialists, are more-so word-of-mouth than word-of-web. But the Kenda’s had good reviews for our dual-sport tope-hopping journey, so we went ahead and headed toward the MotoMundo shop we found them through in Mérida. We “thought” we were doing the right thing by replacing our rubber before our...
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Ruina-a-Ruina Run

February 27, 2011
I have begun typing away and documenting my Mayan ruin-to-ruin run as I horseshoe around the Yucatan Peninsula plotting sweet dual-sport trails and moto-friendly posadas … although my scribbles aren’t yet up to the grand level of the B-Blogable dribble thus posted. Hence this up-to-speed note is to keep Momma’s heart at a comfy 80 BPM:


San Cristobal bathroom poster reminds me why bathrooms just aren’t as fresh south of the border.



The red star tells us that we are in Zapatista land (an...
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